Why this Guelph mountain climber says he won't climb Mount Everest

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Nepal marks 1st Everest ascent amid debate over permits

Veteran climber David Morton told CNN, "The major problem is inexperience, not only of the climbers that are on the mountain but also the operators supporting those climbers." he continued.

"I can not believe what I saw up there", Saikaly wrote of the scene.

He explains why Mount Everest isn't on his list of must-climb mountains.

"Death. Carnage. Chaos. Line-ups". Around 100 climbers did summit in those 2 days with sadly 2 deaths, an Indian man found dead in his tent at camp 4 and an Irish climber lost, assumed fallen, on his descent. "That meant there were close to 800 people trying to go up in what last year was 11 straight days of suitable weather, and this year was only three".

Experts have identified four key reasons for this year's horror conditions on the world's highest mountain. Nepal, one of the world's poorest countries, takes in $300 million each year from climbing.

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It follows a horror season of climbing on Everest where a record number of permits (381) were issued this year and 11 people have died, including nine in Nepal, likely due to altitude sickness. Neither does it control the pace or timing of climbing expeditions.

A traffic jam can be especially unsafe above 8,000 metres, described as the Death Zone.

"There should definitely be less permits issued and more experienced climbers on Everest", Um said. "We lack the rules and regulations that say how many people can actually go up and when".

Huge queues in treacherous conditions see climbers crammed crampon to crampon in a narrow window where the weather was clear enough to attempt reaching the summit.

This is the highest death toll recorded on Everest in the last four years.

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Climbers now need to provide a health certificate to obtain their climbing permit.

He added that the current mishaps on Everest were primarily due to the mushrooming of local operators, many of whom do not have the required expertise to run such high-risk expeditions and sometimes fail to carry out stringent checks on climbers.

While Nepal requires climbers submit a doctor's note verifying they are physically fit, there is no such test of their stamina at extreme heights.

Renowned mountaineer Um Hong-gil of South Korea, who was honoured by the Nepal government at the event commemorating the 66th Everest anniversary, said the number of climbers should be scaled back and only those with proper training and experience should be allowed.

Because of the altitude, climbers have just hours to reach the top before they are at risk of a pulmonary edema, when the lungs fill with liquid causing respiratory failure.

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This is also being blamed for the massive queues on the way up the mighty mountain. "Waiting their turn to reach the summit, mountaineers".

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